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Let's face it, many of us living in the urban jungle can't break away from the modern city centers and its conveniences to move out to the rural, green acres, buy land, and begin a commercial-scale farming production.
What we can do, however, is pull community resources together to utilize small-scale gardening practices that help us become more resilient and reliant on a household/community level. Whether it's in your backyard, your neighbor's (with permission, of course), or down the lane at the community gardens, families can have fun growing fresh food for their family right in the city or suburb. Patio gardens are excellent for apartment-dwellers, and they are extremely low maintenance! All you need to do is Water It With Love!!
Don't have a greenthumb? That's okay! Maybe you'd like to start but don't know where or how...
It's okay! As they say, baby steps are still movement! We love sharing our knowledge on how-to's, so stay tuned to our blog posts. With over 40 years of experience in food and herb production between Gayle and Eric, we'll provide great tips on when to plant, how to plant, what tools work best for diy projects, how to preserve the harvest, garden-to-table recipes, and more! Find us on Instagram @WateritWithLove for more frequent shares and videos from the garden!
Curry and Red Kuri Squash Soup Recipe
The days are getting shorter, and the nights are cooling down, bringing that familiar autumnal glow. But hey, that’s why we have cozy blankets and warm soup made from things we grew this summer. Here is one delicious recipe that calls for many homegrown ingredients - from garlic and onion to squash and herbs. This soup is best served fresh but can be canned to extend shelf life or divided into serving size portions and frozen for a few months.
The ingredients:
1 medium squash of choice or 2 small red Kuri
1 small onion
3-4 garlic cloves
1/2 tsp. garlic powder (I love garlic…)
1/2 tsp. onion powder (need I say more?!)
1 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. black pepper
1/4 tsp. red curry powder
1/2 cup filtered water (with extra for baking)
4 cups of vegetable or chicken broth
3/4 cup coconut milk (can), cream, or another dairy substitute
The recipe:
Preheat oven to 350°. Prep squash by giving it a quick rinse. Slice in half, then scoop seeds (save or compost). Next, in a 9X13” baking dish, place the two halves cut-side down in the dish and fill the bottom of the baking dish with about 1/4” of filtered water. Bake approximately 45 minutes or until tender. Take the dish out of the oven and carefully transfer squash to cutting board to cool. Once the squash is cooled enough to handle, cut away the skin and discard in the compost, leaving diced chunks that will later be added to the soup.
In large soup pot over medium heat, add diced onion, garlic, seasonings (except curry powder) and 1/2 cup of water. Stir until well combined, then let simmer until onions are translucent and tender; no more than 7-9 minutes. Now, add the squash pieces to the pot and stir until well combined. Add curry and broth and increase heat to medium-high. Once boiling, reduce heat to low and stir well to get any ingredients stuck at the bottom of the pot. Once all ingredients have melded and smell divine, turn off heat and remove the pot from the burner. Let cool. If it’s too liquidy, hold back on blending some of the liquid in the next step.. You want this creamy in the end!
When ready, pour all or a portion of the soup into a blender and blend until smooth. Remember, thick is good! Once all the soup has been blended, return the whole lot back into the soup pot. Turn on low heat, and allow the soup to come to a low boil. At this time, you can turn off the heat, stir in the coconut milk, cream or daily substitute.
Enjoy with baked bread or on its own! It is nourishing for a fall meal and warms the heart and soul!
The Bare Necessities: Five Essential Garden Tools for Getting the Job Done
Head into any hardware store or garden center and you’ll find yourself surrounded with hundreds, if not thousands, of tools! Tools for digging, hauling, hacking, wacking, and honestly, you’d need a warehouse in your backyard to contain it all. So, what do you really need if you want to become a DIY gardener? Here’s a handy list to take to the shop or resource organization. Thrift shops, garage sales, craigslist, and resource centers like Resource Central of Boulder, Colorado are all wonderful places to seek out used tools at a fair price.
Five essential tools for the DIY gardener:
Hori-hori Knife. Japenese for ‘dig-dig’, this garden tool is the most handy small tool one could have for the job
Stirrup Hoe, more specifically a looped-blade action hoe
Short-handled Spade
Broadfork
Pruning sheers
Read on to learn more about these essential garden tools.
Hori-Hori Knife
I personally use this tool for EVERYTHING garden related, such as weeding deep roots, digging small holes for transplants, and clearing old growth. I may even, at times, wield it like a mini-machete, making me feel mighty powerful in my little garden world. $20-40
The number one garden tool for the DIY gardener.
2. Stirrup Hoe
This bad boy will clear the surface of the soil in minutes. Great at removing young weeds from the top layer and can be used as a quick tool for spreading out soil that has been disturbed. If planting long rows, this tool can be turned to the side and used to create the space for seeds to go. $30-60
3. Short-handled Spade
For the shorter crowd in the garden world, the short-handled spade is a great tool for digging. At 5’5”, it is easier to maneuver than the long-handled shovels, because short spades allow you to get your body weight over the handle; in turn, making things a bit easier by having leverage at a lower height! If you’re going to dig, why not make it a bit easier on yourself? $20-40
4. Broadfork
Ever hear of this tool? I didn’t until six years ago when we first went to the community garden! It looks like a wide, pitchfork that you use as a shovel rather than to pitch things. This incredible, powerhouse of a tool actually does a better job at aerating the soil than tilling and is a wonderful alternative to gas-powered tools in the garden. Many people from around the world suggest no-till methods, because tilling degrades soil life over time. Broadforks gently loosen the soil, allowing the gardener to remove and add what’s needed. We use the broadfork for removing grassroots and for adding leaves to the annual vegetable gardens. $150-250
Meadow Creature Broadforks of the U.S.A. are some of the best made products in this industry. The photo above provides a link to the “People’s Broadfork - 12” tines. You can find a video on how to use this product on their product page.
5. Pruning Sheers
Don’t be scared to prune! Some plants LOVE your attention and would do better if you gave it a little clip every now and then. Go ahead, watch a few pruning videos and then practice on a plant that doesn’t care to be whacked back (like mint or oregano). From pruning small shrubs and roses, to cutting back a 20x15ft. patch of mint, pruning sheers are a must. $25-55
You can go crazy with the tools for the garden. If that’s your style, then by all means, go for it. But for those who just want to be able to get in the garden and get the job done quickly, without spending half the day rounding up the appropriate tools, then just refer back to this list. The five tools above should be able to get just about any job done.
How to Make Organic Apple Cider Vinegar
This past Autumn, I was gifted an apple cider vinegar scoby that, if fed fresh apples, will continue to produce vinegar every 1-2 months. A scoby, or symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast, is pretty nasty looking to some, while others understand fermented foods are crucial in the modern-day American diet. Let me give you a quick tutorial and then you can start your very own Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV).
To Start a Scoby
To begin, any unpasteurized, organic ACV available for purchase in natural grocers will have a mother culture in the bottle. If you don’t have a scoby of your own, this is a good place to start. If you feed this raw, mother culture a bit of cane sugar and fresh cut apples in filtered water, then let sit for 2 months, you will have a full-grown ACV scoby!
Now, once you have an ACV scoby, this is when the larger batches of vinegar begin to brew. The perfect time to make it is during apple harvest, so that you can use fresh, organic apples right from the tree. However, if this isn’t possible throughout the year, just pick up a few organic apples from the grocery store.
The ACV Process
In a large glass jar, add roughly chopped ~
1-inch of turmeric (or 1 tsp dried)
2-3 inches of ginger (or 1 tsp dried)
1 head of garlic (or 1 tbsp dried)
1 large onion (or 1 tbsp dried)
4 inches of horseradish root (or 1 tbsp of minced jarred horseradish)
1 habanero pepper or alternative spicy pepper
1-2 lemons (one large or two small) with peel
1 tsp black peppercorns, sprigs of oregano, sage, thyme, as desired
and/or any other healing herbs such as calendula, elderberry, nettles
(Ingredients should be organic and washed)
Mushrooms, like lion’s mane or oyster, as desired
Leave enough room at the top of the jar to allow ingredients to be fully covered, then top with organic, raw apple cider vinegar.
Seal with a plastic lid. *This is important for fermenting pressure release*
Shake up daily and let sit unrefrigerated for 30+ days to ferment out of direct sunlight. Top off with vinegar as needed.
Strain veggie and herb ingredients from the liquid by using a cheesecloth or clean linen. Bottle and store in fridge or cabinet.
Use: Take small doses (less than or equal to 1 oz. as a preventative for seasonal ailments or onset of flu symptoms. Acts as a digestion and immune system aid. As it hints in its name, fire cider is hot (spicy!) and stimulating to the body functions. Try making a small batch for back-to-school bug season!
The ACV Results
After 1-2 months, it is time to taste test. It should smell like vinegar, and it may be a bit sweet, depending on your apple variety. If it is up to standards, strain the vinegar into new, clean jars, compost or feed the apples to the pigs, and then, save the scoby for the next batch. If it is not up to taste or it tastes bland, feel free to add fresh apples (removing the old), and letting it sit on the shelf a bit longer. When starting a new batch of ACV, always start with a clean jar and fresh filtered water.
In the end, it’s incredibly simple, amazingly delicious, and extremely gratifying to know that one can grow their own food and preserve the harvest to last throughout the year.
Homegrown and homemade Salsa Verde
Homegrown and Homemade Salsa Verde
I'm running out of jars preserving foods from the harvest, but that's okay...I don't think anyone minds the hot sauce or syrup jar when the deliciousness inside is what matters most!!!
This is the easiest and most delicious Salsa Verde made from almost ALL homegrown ingredients! If I had that solar greenhouse, chances are the limes would be homegrown, too!
To make salsa verde (adjust for desired spice level):
1 pound of tomatillos, washed and peeled
1 medium onion, cut into quarters
3 cloves garlic, peeled
1-2 hot peppers
1 tbls. lime juice (not homegrown, but hey, its crucial for this recipe!)
1/4 cup to 1/2 cup filtered water
1 tsp. dried cumin
2 tbls. fresh cilantro
1 tbls. fresh oregano
Dash of salt
In a medium sauce pan over medium heat, throw all ingredients in and heat to a rolling boil while stirring occasionally. Mash the contents of the pan and stir a bit more. Cook for 15-20 minutes or until the tomatillos are good and tender. Take off of the heat. Blend the salsa until desired consistency with a blender or food processor. Bottle or serve immediately.
Organic Fire Cider Recipe
Quick and simple fire cider recipe made from organic ingredients.
How to make organic fire cider
Fire Cider has been fermenting for four weeks and is just in time for use.. my family is getting the seasonal cold going around the community, and I've got the biggest weekend coming up. There's simply no way that I can get sick! Not with this magical ‘elixir’ of sorts. Once again, I’m going to put this old, folk remedy to the test. I’ll post below on the results!
Super easy to make-- check it out--
The Ingredients:
Apple Cider Vinegar (at least one quart)
1 large onion
4-6 cloves of garlic
1 inch chunk of fresh ginger
1/2 inch chunk of fresh turmeric
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 spicy pepper - chili pepper, jalapeno, or habanero depending on how much spice you like
1 whole lemon
2 inch chunk of fresh horseradish
honey (to taste if desired)
Other ingredient options: calendula, rosemary, oregano, cinnamon, sage, tulsi basil, thyme, star anise, juniper berry, rose hips, elderberry, cayenne pepper, clove, mustard seed, and orange peel.
The Process:
In a large glass jar, add roughly chopped turmeric, ginger, garlic, onion, habanero pepper, lemon juice and peel, black pepper, and/or any other healing ingredients. Leave enough room on the top of the jar so that the vinegar can cover the ingredients.
Then, top with organic, raw apple cider vinegar. Shake the jar daily or as often as you remember! Let sit unrefrigerated for 30+ days to ferment. Top off with vinegar as needed.
After fermenting for at least 30 days, strain and remove the food/herbs, then (if desired) add raw, local honey to the cider. The cider can be bottled into smaller jars using a funnel. The remnants of garlicky goodness can be composted or put through a second fermentation process.
Shake it up, baby! After week 3, this fire cider was looking stewed and fiery!!
Organic, raw apple cider vinegar can be purchased in one-gallon containers from natural grocery chains like Sprouts market for approximately $15 (priced in 2019).
How to Use:
Some folks take this remedy for preventative measures, as it contains many anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, anti-bacterial, and immune-boosting ingredients. It serves as a digestive aide, stimulating the system and promoting an alkaline state in the digestive tract. It can also be consumed in small doses upon onset of sniffles, sneezing, cough, or congestion to stimulate the lymphatic system. It has been known to speed up the healing process to many ailments.
Fire cider can be mixed into tea, water, taken straight, or with food. Salads and sautéed greens are two types of foods you can add the vinegar to!
Storage: Once filtered, cider can be stored in glass with a tight lid unrefrigerated for up to 6 months-1 year, if not longer. If you are concerned about the product going rancid after a period of time, store it in the fridge to help prolong the shelf life of this magical elixir.
Results: Tried and true, time and time again! This isn’t my first rodeo (flu season), and I’ve had various forms of this wondrous remedy over the past ten years. It’s true. Fire cider burns like fire, and it’s so spicy from the garlic, peppers, and onion, that you wonder why the hell you are doing it.
But then, the next morning, you wake up without that severe sore throat that kept you moaning in bed the day before. My husband drank the small bottle pictured on the left over a course of 3 days and his sinus infection and bronchial issues are down to a minor cough.
This may not be the cure-all for every person suffering from the cold or flu (if special treatment is really needed, get to a healing practitioner), but there is something to be said for plant-based medicine fermented in ACV. I’d love to hear if you try it out, and if it works kicking those cold bugs to the curb!
Cheers to warming the belly, fire side!
G
Mashed-Fruit Jam Recipe
Small-batch jam recipe with organic mashed fruit
A friend calls yesterday and says, "Quick, can I stop by to give you some organic, locally grown plums that were gifted to me?" She had more than she could ever use and wanted to share the abundance. Super ripe, super delicious plums... so of course I had to make a jam!!
💗💗💗💗💗
To make mashed-fruit jam:
2 cups of fresh fruit, cut into chunks and pits removed
1 tsp. lemon juice
1/2 cup raw sugar (honey or sugar replacements work, too)
1 tsp pectin (pamona's universal pectin is the brand I use)
1 tsp. calcium water that is packaged with the pectin. This helps activate the pectin, but may not be necessary for quick jam if you don't have it in your pantry.
Set aside 3-4 clean (sterile), small glass jars and lids. Have a blender/processor ready for any thick-skinned fruit that might need extra blending (think apples, plums).
In a medium sauce pan on medium-low heat, add fruit, lemon juice, and calcium water. Mash and cook for 5-7 minutes; stirring frequently. While that is cooking, mix sugar and pectin together.
(If the fruit needs extra blending, this is the time to pull the mixer forward and use it. The vita-mix works great for hot foods. Once blended to desired consistency, pour back into the sauce pan and bring back to a boil.)
Now, the mashed fruit should be tender and... well, mashed. Add the sugar-pectin mix and stir vigorously for 1-2 minutes while the jam returns to a boil. Once boiling, remove from heat.
Pour jam into sterile jars 1/4" to the top, wipe the rims clean, then tighten lids. If canning, boil submerged in water for 10 mins. (Add 1 min. for every 1000 ft elevation change) Remove from water and allow to cool. Check the seal. Then, store until you can't resist eating it any longer.
If you don't want to boil jars, place cooled jars in the fridge and use within 3 weeks.
💗💗💗💗💗
Fermented Ginger-Apple Beer
Recipe for fermented ginger beer and fresh apple cider
Fermented Ginger-Apple Beer
This past month in my permaculture design course, we learned all about fermentation.. and the bug hit! I immediately knew my sourkraut making days were now going to include kim-chi, fire cider, kombucha, ACV, and what else?! Ginger. Fermented ginger is EASY and even better that this bug hit me while it is apple season. Oh, Fall - with the glorious abundance of apples, plums, apricots, Palisade peaches, and more! Apple Cider is amazing and quite simple. If you don’t have a cider press, juicing is a good way to enjoy the fruit, too.
Let me get to the point— When you put two good things together, what do you get? Amazing!
Fermentation complete.
Caution: Consume at your own risk! Extremely delicious flavor inspires immediate and possible overconsumption.
Ye be warned!
Check out this recipe on how to make a ginger bug, then go on to feed fresh apple cider to it during the 2nd fermentation. The end result? Heaven in a bottle.. yes, if heaven could be bottled, this is what it would taste like.
How to make a ginger bug:
In a medium glass jar, mix 1 tbsp. minced or grated (*must be unpeeled) fresh ginger, 1 tsp. raw sugar, and 1/3 cup water. Cover jar with cheesecloth or coffee filter, then set on counter for 24 hours. Stir when you remember to! After 24 hours, add minced (...or grated) 1 tbsp. unpeeled ginger, 1 tsp. sugar, and a bit of water. Stir, cover, and let sit at room temp. Continue to add and stir every day, and after 2-3 days, you'll see fermentation occur.
*The outer layer of ginger, the brown peel, is what contains the naturally-occuring yeast and bacteria needed for fermentation. Please consider buying organic ginger when making your own.
This is when you can add the ginger bug to fresh pressed apple cider. In a large glass jar, mix 1/2 cup ginger bug to 1/2 gallon cider, plus 1 tbsp. fresh slices of ginger; peeled. Allow that to ferment for 2-5 days at room temp with cheesecloth cover; stirring daily and keeping it out of the light. Filter with the cheesecloth as you bottle into jars that can be 'burped' for 2-3 days. This is when the apple-ginger beer develops carbonation. Store in the fridge after fermentation is complete.
Recipe is loosely based on another version by Grow Forage Cook Ferment.
Gayle's Rough Guide to Growing Organic Garlic
Happy Summer!
How can it be the end of August, ALREADY?! Where did July go?! Forget that, where did June go???!!! In the garden, we've had a bounty of fresh veggies, the sunflowers are 10 ft. tall and feeding American Goldfinch, plus our garlic and onion harvests have been put away for autumn/winter meals.
We've been diversifying our organic seed selection, along with saving seeds from our homegrown food. Garlic is one of my all-time favorite foods to grow, and it's one that we continue to save and plant generation after generation every year. It is a medicinal food that is a staple for many families around the world, having been cultivated by humans for over 5000 years! It is extremely versatile across many cultural meals, but not every gardener knows where to begin or what to do once it's harvested.
Welcome to Gayle's Guide to Growing Garlic!
In this blog, I will cover:
Garlic varieties (hard vs. softneck)
Getting the ground ready
Golly! Autumn Cultivation (had to do it!)
Garlic maintenance - mulching, fertilizing, watering
Garlic harvest
Garlic braids, curing, and storage
Garlic seed saving (bulbil vs. clove)
By the end of this blog post, you should have a general understanding of how to grow your own! And of course, it always helps to simply water it with love. Meaning, put thoughtful (loving) intention behind your actions, and you should see a fruitful harvest!
GARLIC VARIETIES
To begin, there are MANY varieties of garlic grown around the world. Cold conditions, wet/dry/hot...garlic grows in abundance! There is even wild garlic. But really, hardneck, softneck.. what does it all mean?
Hardnecks produce approx. 5-10 large cloves with a scape, while softnecks produce many smaller cloves (12-24) and usually forego the scape. Hardneck garlic is great for roasting and baking, and it grows well in cold/wet conditions. Softnecks pack strong flavor, so they are great for cooking, sauces, fermentation, and eaten raw. Yes, I said raw. Softnecks are known to grow well in hot/dry conditions.
Homegrown Inchelium White softneck garlic harvested Summer 2018.
Easily enough, anyone can plant any garlic clove directly into the soil, and they will get a full, new bulb in the next year. No need to seed save from the hardneck scape (more on that later). No need to go to a seed supplier every year, unless of course, new specific varieties are desired. Simply plant 10 separate cloves, and 10 bulbs will grow!
Try out some of the few suggestions below and see what works for your specific garden and cooking needs.
Hardneck favorites: Spanish Roja, Chesnok Red, German Stiffneck or Extra Hardy, Zemo, and Music. Check out High Mowing seed company as an example of delicious varieties of garlic from an organic grower.
Softneck favorites: Inchelium Red, Lorz Italian, Early Purple Italian, and Broadleaf Czech. Seed Saver's Exchange is a wonderful organization dedicated to preserving organic and heirloom varieties of North America.
I also highly recommend exchanging garlic varieties with neighbors or local farmers. If a neighbor or local farmer grows garlic annually, the garlic will adapt to the climate, precipitation, and regional soil conditions - making it hardier for your own garden. However, in some cases, like volatile swings in climate or seasons with higher cases of pest/disease exposure, shared garlic seeds and harvest may be negatively impacted.
GETTING THE GROUND READY
Soil conditions. One thing that we must discuss before you just toss those garlic cloves in the ground, water it with love, and hope for the new crop next July! If anything, this is the most crucial factor in gardening success. Many people feel defeated and throw in the trowel when gardening just doesn't work, so let's set you up for the best chance of success! Here is a simple step-by-step on ground preparation.
1. Mark out the garlic bed. Growing 20 garlic heads? 10x2 ft. bed will suffice with room to plant other herbs or veggies in the mix. Remember, companion planting helps reduce pests, weeds, and increases overall diversity in the garden.
2. Add organic matter. Say it with me --- "AOOOOMMMMM." Think leaves, compost, animal manure, green manure, and worm castings. The top 8" of soil needs to be ready for growing. Try sheet-mulching, which is discussed in What Feels Like Spring Greetings. Later on, investing in a high-quality, organic fertilizer may be important.
3. Mulch. Top dress the soil with straw, leaves, spent hay, grass clippings from a pesticide-free (all -cides free, really) lawn. Mulch reduces erosion, opportunistic plant takeover, increases water retention, and helps protect against harsh conditions over winter.
4. Let rest. If you're going to add a heavy dose of organic matter like leaves, grass clippings, or green manure, amending could begin 6-8 weeks prior to planting out garlic. This is where mulch is crucial, because it keeps soil healthier by reducing sun exposure to the organisms in the soil, allowing them to do the "dirty" work on breaking down the matter that becomes garden gold.
Now, you are ready to plant!
AUTUMN CULTIVATION
Surprisingly, garlic is one crop that is planted in the Autumn and harvested the following Summer. Depending on your zone of hardiness, garlic is planted around the first hard freeze. For Colorado residents, early October is the most common time to plant garlic. If the first hard freeze is in September, plant in September. If your region does not freeze, consider checking with farmers in the area to confirm when it's the best time to plant.
In your freshly amended garden bed, create two rows that are 12 inches apart and 3-4 inches deep. If regional climate patterns indicate severely cold weather for the average winter, plant 4 inches deep with a mulch layer on top.
Plant garlic cloves 8-12 inches apart in the two rows. Every garlic bulb needs 4-6 inches in all directions to grow nice and large - so space them out!! If there's extra space around them in the Spring, lettuce, chard, celery, kale, parsley, basil, thyme, or cilantro could be planted intermixed along or between the two rows.
Removing the mulch revealed fresh green sprouts in early May!
Once the cloves are in the rows, cover them up with soil and mulch, mark the rows so you remember where they are, and allow them to lay dormant through the Winter season. By March-May of the following year, green tops of your baby garlic bulbs should emerge! Yahoo! You did it!! It's so gratifying to see the garlic tops come up, because you know - right then- you'll have something to harvest, and you can happily continue on with plans for other crops.
If garlic doesn't come up in the spring, that's okay. Mistakes are great learning opportunities, so try to troubleshoot any past mistakes or seek assistance from a friend, neighbor, or local farmer. Farmer's markets are a wonderful way to connect to people 'in the know'! You can even email me through the contact page on this site.
Growing garlic in a container? In one large barrel gardening container, plant 4-5 garlic cloves equally spaced out around the edge, leaving 4 inches of space between the garlic and the pot. Planting depth and spacial needs remain the same when in a container. Then, in the Spring, consider planting 1 determinate tomato plant, 2 eggplant, or 2 pepper in the center of the pot. Perennial herbs like sage, oregano, and rosemary are wonderful companions, as well.
GARLIC MAINTENANCE
Mulching - Keep the ground covered to help retain moisture and reduce soil erosion. Straw, leaves, spent hay, comfrey cuttings, and green ground covers, like clover and legumes, work great.
Fertilizing - If you are going to use fertilizers, please consider the source. According to many gardeners, garlic needs a few doses of plant food aka fertilizer to give them a good boost of supplements in the early spring. Some say once per week, but I saw wonderful results with a bi-weekly dressing, then slowly reducing the frequency as we approached the July harvest time. Follow the directions on the fertilizer bottle for the ratio on fertilizer to water that you will use. Usually, gardeners use a watering can/pitcher to mix the fertilizer with 1-2 gallons of water that will then be poured over the crop. I like to water the plants after fertilizing to give them a good soak and spread that fertilizer out and into the soil. Happy, happy!
Neptune's Harvest Fish Seaweed Blend 2-3-1 is a fantastic fertilizer for all of your gardening needs. Not just garlic, but onions, leafy greens, squash, and melons all LOVE this product. I am not here to sell anything, but I swear by this organic fish/kelp fertilizer. Age Old organics is a beloved brand around here in Colorado, but if you look closely on the back of the bottle, it says it is not for use on organic crops. Hmm...?
Watering - Utilize Spring precipitation. Don't overwater, but don't allow them to dry out completely, either. How do you know if your soil is wet or dry? The Soil Test, of course! If you stick your finger in the soil 1-2 inches deep, it should feel damp. If not, water it!! The garlic won't need attention over winter, but as soon as the snow melts and the greens pop up, it's time to pay closer attention to your crop.
Over the course of Spring, you will want to water frequently, however, near the end, as the garlic is beginning to put most of the energy into the bulb of the plant, watering is not needed as often. If you have planted other veggies or herbs around your garlic, focus the water on them rather than soaking the garlic. It's important to allow the garlic to dry out in the soil, or it will be more prone to fungal diseases like garlic rust.
Preferred watering methods are open for debate - many LOVE and highly recommend soaker hoses and drip systems. They reduce evaporation and wasted water, they minimize mold and mildew issues on prone plants like tomatoes, plus they're easy to set up and easy to use on a timer. My 15x30 ft. companion planting/perennial/annual/individual-need plants require attention that a drip system wouldn't be best for. In this case, I prefer a gentle-flow nozzle that distributes 4 gallons per minute. Fogg-It nozzles, for example.
A few tips for watering with a hose: Aim close to the soil, not in the sky! Also, avoid watering the leaves of most types of plants, as this will reduce mold, mildew, and pest infestations.
GARLIC HARVEST
Now that the garlic has been tended to for the Spring months, there should be real, honest-to-goodness, garlic in Mid-June. The bottom leaves should start to turn brown, and some of your stalks may start to fall over. If there are hardneck garlic varieties, you will see the scape form from the center of the greens at the top (again, more on this later). The Summer Solstice is an interesting time in the gardening/farming world, as well as, the moon cycles. Personally, I like to tune into the weather patterns, moon cycle, and significant dates to see when it would be best to harvest.
When you think the garlic is ready, test one bulb to see. Gently pull the whole plant up from the soil. If it feels tough to pull, loosen the soil with a trowel or shovel; careful not to strike the plant with the tip of your blade. Gently remove any excess soil from the roots and lay your garlic out on the top of the soil. If you feel the garlic is ready to harvest, continue with the rest of the crop. If not, wait another week or more, then try again.
GARLIC BRAIDS, CURING, AND STORAGE
Harvesting garlic is one of the most rewarding experiences in the vegetable garden. Once you've grown garlic, it's extremely tempting to gobble it all up in a roasting pan, pesto, and sauces. However, garlic needs to cure, or dry out, for at least 30-60 days. We can't resist, so yes, some green garlic is consumed immediately!! But then, once I've shaken off most of the soil from the plants, I try to clean them up to braid for curing.
Here are how-to videos on cleaning and braiding garlic. This season was our first time growing three varieties, two of which are similar softnecks and then one hardneck that my neighbor has saved for 16 generations. We braid garlic to make it more efficient for the curing process, however many people do a tight braid for hanging all winter long. I don't personally keep my garlic in braids, so this version of braiding is more for temporary purposes. My apologies to those who are looking for the tight garlic braid, but as I said, I'm not the only one growing and storing this plant, so I suggest a quick YouTube search on how to braid garlic. You'll find wonderful resources from other gardeners!
Garlic loves to be cured in a cool, dry place, preferably out of direct sunlight. Braiding garlic makes storage easier, because it should be hung from the greens to allow the remaining energy to go into the bulb during the curing process. Once garlic has cured for 1-2 months, meaning the leaves have wilted and dried completely, it is ready to store for Autumn/Winter meals. Simply brush off the dried leaves and layers that are loose. The long tendrils of leaves will break off pretty close to the bulb. Then, take the garlic harvest and store in a cool, dry place. We have a storage box for onions, garlic, and potatoes.
Unpeeled garlic has great shelf life. Softnecks are said to store for approx. 6-8 months. Hardnecks should store longer; some say up to one year. Peeled garlic lasts one week in the fridge, so keep it whole and unpeeled until necessary.
I do not leave dirt on the garlic after harvesting, as it can mold from moisture, especially when hung garlic is touching other bulbs. Some farmers/gardeners leave dirt on and then brush off when it’s done curing. A personal preference, here.
SEED SAVING BULBILS VERSUS CLOVES
A scape, as I try to explain in the video, is the garlic going to 'flower' on the hardneck varieties, though it's not actually a flower producing seed. If you allow it, the scape will produce bulbils, and they are technically the clone of the parent plant. According to my garden neighbor who has seed-saved for 16 generations, it will take him one year to grow the bulbil to be a full-size clove, which will then go on to produce a bulb in the second year. According to multiple sources, bulbils should be stored dry and need to undergo stratification, which means they need to experience cold temperatures before they'll grow into bulbs.
Bulbils are smaller cloves in the first year and can be planted much closer together. Also, they don't get planted as deep; one to two inches for the first year, then 4-6 inches on the second year. After the first year harvest has cured, save the cloves for the following year's real bulb harvest.
However, if you are growing garlic to eat the bulb, then pinch the scape off as it begins to curl at the top of the plant, otherwise the energy is going into producing the bulbil rather than growing the bulb nice and large. The scapes go great in a salad or pasta/pesto sauce...just sayin' DON'T TOSS THEM - EAT THEM! Typically, this process occurs mid- to late-June.
Thinking about planting more garlic for next year? Great! Take one or two of the harvested garlic bulbs, separate the cloves, then go back to step one of this entire process. The clove should be hearty and healthy enough to grow into a new bulb next Spring.
SO-LONG, FAREWELL
As I said, I simply cannot believe that it is nearing September. We have harvested beets, carrots, herbs, tomatoes, corn, eggplant, bouquets of flowers, zucchini, gourds, tomatillos, rhubarb, onions, radish, peppers, and so, so much more. We are beyond grateful for the opportunity to grow food and medicine in a community garden space while we are apartment-dwelling in the city. If you desire a space of your own, but don't have access to one, I would encourage supporting the cause to get a community garden going in your city/town/village/neighborhood/apartment HOA. Visit your town hall or HOA meetings to discuss the opportunity to find a park or open-space to adopt a greenhouse/community garden center. You would be SURPRISED at what a group of 50-100 gardens can do for a population! I know, firsthand, that a 15x30 ft. space can feed a family of four fresh food daily from May to October, plus a great bounty for Autumn and Winter meals. Gardening is good for the soul and it helps improve health of both human and Earth. Get out there and dig it!
Don't forget to water it with a little love :)
Gayle
The garden progress from May to August!
References:
Morrow, Rosemary. Earth User's Guide to Permaculture. 2nd Edition. Published 2006.
Sheet-Mulching can be found in wonderful resources such as Gaia's Garden (see Resources page for more info)
Expertise from multiple garden neighbors over the course of 4 years of being in the community garden. Even longer when you consider family traditions or friends that we've worked with who have shared their knowledge. There's nothing like tradition and culture being passed along through communication within our communities, and then having storytellers, like me, be able to pass the info along to other people, whether they are here in Colorado or abroad.
Spring Planning: Seeds and What to Plant When
After a deep winter, nothing feels better than to be in the garden. It's all about seeds, getting the hands dirty in the soil, adding compost to annual vegetable gardens, early spring harvests, and bouquets of flowers for sweet celebrations! In this blog, I'll share the step-by-step phases that I tend to go through to plan my spring garden:
a few seed companies and ways to find a local seed company in your area
when to plant cover crops and other early spring crops
how to transplant from greenhouses when you can’t start from seed
suggest what types of plants to put in the garden so that you can harvest food early in the spring
suggest one simple way to preserve the early spring herb harvests
Over the course of March, April, and May, over 75 types of vegetables, fruit, herbs, and flowers have been planted in our 15x30 ft. garden. Over 50 varieties had been planted by seed, many perennials are coming back, and the latest plantings were eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, parsley, and a few other transplants that we received from a local greenhouse. Check out the five phases to setting up a nice, spring garden.
Phase One: Pick your seeds
Don't know where to find good seeds? Check out your local natural grocer. If they don't have a local seed company in stock, check out your local farmer's market. Often times, local farms will have their own seeds for sale. In the Rocky Mountain region, Masa Seed Foundation, Lake Valley Seeds, and Annie’s Heirloom Seeds (WI) have wonderful varieties of organic and heirloom plants. Another favorite of mine is High Mowing Seeds from Vermont, U.S.A. They focus on organic farming practices, offer over 600 varieties, and the customer service experience was great.
No matter where you live, try to support a local seed producer, as there are many benefits to using regionally-adapted seeds. The ultimate option is to save your own seeds, but more on that in a future blog.
Planning Phase 2: Slow and steady planting
The weather, moon cycles, cover crops, and length of growing season all impact when we plant certain varieties of crops. For example, snap peas, beets, spinach, and broccoli love cool weather, so they prefer to be sown in March and early April, depending on your USDA Zone of Hardiness. However, tomatoes, peppers, and melons prefer warm soil, so in Colorado, this means after Mother's Day and maybe even waiting until June due to sporadic hail and frost. Ideally, night temps must consistently stay above 55 degrees Fahrenheit for warm weather crops to thrive.
Have you ever heard of planting and harvesting with the moon cycles? We plant seeds near the new moon, because when they sprout nearly two weeks later, they will be under the light of the full moon. The sprouts love the extra light that seem to help the plants grow even more during the early stages of the life cycle. Often, ripe fruit are ready to pick under the light of the full moon. Watch the cycles in your garden and see what works best for you.
Succession planting is when you begin a series on plantings of the same crop, so that the harvests follow one after another - prolonging the harvest season and the bounty. Not only does it offer more food in the end, but we have found great benefits to planting more than one time in the season. Bugs have life cycles and beetle larva, for example, feed at certain times in the season. So, if one crop gets decimated because its leaves were ripe and juicy for the taking, we may have a chance of a harvest if the second crop isn’t ready yet and the bugs aren’t attracted to it. Another reason to consider succession planting is for a better success rate if seeds do not germinate. Succession planting is excellent for lettuce, spinach, peas, squash, corn, and herbs.
We planted cover crops, both crimson clover and a legume/oat mix, in early March. There are a few ways to work with cover crop. You can mow it down when it goes to flower, so that you use the leaf litter as chop-and-drop mulch. The legume mix can be turned into the soil as a "green manure" rich in nitrogen by mid-May for the crops we want to grow all summer. Also, the crimson clover can still grow in areas we do not want the soil exposed. Things like zucchini, sunflowers, herbs, and flowers can grow around the clover without fighting for space. Bees and other pollinators LOVE the crimson clover!!
Corn is one crop with a limited growing season. There is a saying from the Midwest that says you'll have a good crop if your "corn is knee high by the Fourth of July!" If corn isn't knee high by the fourth of July, it's an indicator that the stalks and ears won't be nearly as fruitful as they could be. One never can say when it's the perfect time to plant, but it seems early May did the trick this year. Our Enchanted Milling Corn took and looked to be on track for the 4th!
Planning Phase 3: Can’t plant from seed? Buy from a nursery!
I get it. Not everyone has a green thumb or even then, face challenges when planting by seed. Sometimes, it's worth going to someone else who specializes in growing certain varieties! There's a trick, though. Transplants from a garden center or greenhouse need to be "hardened off" before going into the soil. Many sources recommend one full week, but if you are itching to get them in the ground, here's what I suggest:
Expose the watered plants in full sun for half a day, then bring them in from the elements. Next day, leave out all day, then bring them in. Keep soil moist. The third day, keep out all day and night. On the fourth day, plant, fertilize, and water.
Extending the garden bed was a spring garden project that was inspired by the overwhelming number of seeds and transplants we have! "Where to put those ground cherries, lemon balm, double-click cosmos, big max pumpkins, jack-be-little pumpkins, and more? In the newly extended garden bed that we will make, of course!" - Gayle, late-May musings.
Planning Phase 4: What to plant in order to eat an early spring harvest?
Early spring harvests have been small, but gratifying, to say the least. Perennials such as sage, oregano, rhubarb, yarrow, chives, and violets have been blessing us with their early shoots. However, we are only working with 15x30ft. of space. Imagine if you had a big garden to work with! Are you curious about what you can grow to get an early harvest?
Try these perennials that will come up every year:
Asparagus
Rhubarb
Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes)
Strawberry
Herbs like sage, oregano, chive, garlic chive, and mint
Try these annuals in early March, April, and May:
Herbs like parsley, cilantro, and dill
Spinach, swiss chard, and kale
Legumes such as snap or snow peas
Celery
Root crops like carrots, beets, and radish
Phase 5: Preserve the harvest
People may think that harvests only happen in the fall, but no! We're flush in oregano and rhubarb, so we've had to work on preserving the harvest, already! This year, I'm gifting organic olive oil with sage flowers and oregano to friends and family. I thought this was the perfect way to preserve the deliciously, fragrant oregano!
How to make herb-infused oil:
Simply harvest herbs, like oregano and sage flowers, allow them to dry out for a day or two to release any moisture. Next, stick them in a clean jar, and drizzled organic extra-virgin olive oil over the herbs until the oil covered the top of the herbs. Allow to infuse a few days before use.
Easy peasy, and what a lovely gift to give and to receive!
How to bring a little cheer into your home:
The kids love harvesting, so meager harvests have been "lame," and the big DIY projects have been mundane and dreadful to them. It's hard to get the kids excited to be in the garden at this time of year, but I found that giving my youngest daughter a freshly-picked bouquet of flowers for her very special day was just the thing to put a smile on her face and brighten her day! She even wanted to wear one of them in her hair!!
Summer Solstice is just around the corner, and that means garlic will almost be ready to harvest, sunflowers are taller than my children, and almost all of our plants will be in the ground and thriving. All those little seeds of intention that we sowed this early spring will be coming to fruition. New projects will always be in the works, the kids will be forever busy, and my head may spin with the whirlwind from the wildness of life, but I know that giving thanks for the little things make the big picture that much better!
We hope you, too, find joy in the small things that make life so grand.
In love and light,
Gayle
Permaculture 101: What is it and why should you care?
Happy April, Friends!
While I have been familiar with gardening practices my whole life, there is so much more that I wasn't aware of until recently. Permaculture. Yeah, I am SUPER jazzed about this and most people's eyes glaze over or they ask, "what is permaculture, anyways?!"
So, what is permaculture and why should you care?
Permaculture is a holistic approach to designing the land and home where a family can have the most sustainable lifestyle on a household level with minimal impact made on the earth and nature around us. Permanent agriculture considers purposeful functions and sustainable methods for the design of property, along with the production of food. Though, as I’ve learned, it is not limited to simply food, but a web of useful ecosystems and diverse organisms that can be used for fuel, building, medicine, community sharing, tools, and so much more. This is crucial for future generations, as the majority of us now are well aware of the damage that can be created by not caring about our consumption habits, our agriculture practices at large, and how disconnected communities are becoming from nature. I love the term, “thrival,” that I read in one of the best books ever on permaculture, and I love it because it means “to thrive, not just survive.” There’s another quote by Wendell Berry that stresses the importance of our oneness with nature, and that is, “Nature includes us....We are in it and are a part of it...if it does not thrive, we cannot thrive.”
After reading up on more than ten different books circulating the library over this winter, I found a few favorites that I would highly recommend to anyone interested in learning more about permaculture and small-scale gardening. The term, “permaculture,” was coined by an Australian teacher and scientist, Bill Mollison. Introduction to Permaculture, by B. Mollison, is a fantastic starting point for any newbie. My mind was simply blown away by the application of age-old methods in a modern world. It is a fantastic resource for small-scale farmers and home gardens, as well. Mollison focuses on key permaculture principles (relative location utilizing zones, efficient energy planning, use of polyculture, edge/pattern) and makes it easy for any reader to implement his ideas on permaculture functions into any design. For example, anyone can use biological resources to improve current conditions in a number of ways. Mollison weighs in on animal tractors, pest control, and fertilizers like comfrey and legumes, just to name a few.
Bill Mollison's, "Introduction to Permaculture" is a great start for any new gardener or small-scale farmer.
Another fantastic resource, written by landscape designer Jessi Bloom and permaculture expert Dave Boehnlein, is the book titled, “Practical Permaculture for Home Landscapes, Your Community, and the Whole Earth." The authors cover all the bases: the basics, the design process, permaculture systems, useful plants, and delve into ‘invisible’ structures. There are many factors to consider in the implementation of a design of a home. For example, a family must consider structures, kid space, garden beds, and maybe even space for pets and backyard animals. Plus, depending on location, a homeowner may be working with existing structures or designing anew. Utilizing the principles of permaculture, whether it is in regards to water, waste, shelter, energy, and structures can help any homeowner live more in alignment and harmony with nature and the local ecosystems.
What are the principles of permaculture? In a condensed version from a number of resources (Mollison's Intro to Permaculture or Toby Hemenway's Gaias Garden were my faves):
1. Observe. Take time to notice subtle changes through the seasons before implementing any design. 2. Connect. Connect with nature, neighbors, local resources. 3. Catch and collect energy and materials. 4. Each element in a design has multiple functions. 5. Each function is supported by multiple elements. 6. Least amount of change for the greatest effect. 7. Small-scale intensive systems. 8. Optimize edge. 9. Collaborate with succession. 10. Use bio + renewable energy resources. 11. Turn problems into solutions. 12. Get a yield. 13. Biggest limit to abundance is creativity. 14. Mistakes are tools for learning.
This is, hands-down, my favorite book on permaculture practices and design methods. All-encompassing with great details on how-to's, useful plants, and more.
Peter Bane, author of Permaculture Handbook for Town and Country, is one of the best teachers of North American permaculture. He focuses on the transformation of suburban and peri-urban allotments, and he shows how the elements of permaculture can produce extremely beneficial outcomes for our society at large. He approaches “garden-farming” with permaculture principles, considers the elements (think labor, water, soil, plants, structures, energy, trees), then lays out the potential outcomes. Huge benefits include improved diets, better agriculture practices, inclusive culture, tight-knit community, improved outreach, and change to outdated methods and beliefs.
Peter Bane's, "The Permaculture Handbook" is HUGE for North American garden-farmers. This resource is fantastic for the suburban gardener who wants to transition their lot to a more productive garden space.
For over fifteen years, my passion has only grown for sustainability, renewable energy technology, ‘bio’tecture, organic gardening methods, and improving the standard of living for all. I care deeply for the earth, I hope our great-grandchildren have a beautiful earth to thrive on, and I want our community (the whole earth, really) to thrive just as much as we do.
Please refer to our Resources page for future links to great guides on small-scale gardens, design, permaculture, organic gardening, sustainable architecture, and more. The desire to learn more will never cease, so surely there will be more books and online resources that I will share with you all!
Thanks for reading and an abundance of joy to you,
G
Get Started Early (NOW!): Spring Garden Projects and More
My first ever blog post... Who knew I'd find the time to put down thoughts into word form outside of a journal, business plan, or the always evolving to-do list?! I'm excited to share the knowledge, family fun, and the love of gardening with the world. As they say, there's no time like the present, and right now, it's an exciting time of year in the Northern Hemisphere! If you’re visiting from the southern hemisphere, welcome and may this inspire for next growing season!!
It's March, and in Colorado, the temps are quickly rising. Just enough for us to work the soil, plant a few early spring crops, and give thanks for getting back in the garden. Over the past couple weeks as night temps begin to rise above freezing, we have been slowly amending with worm castings, fresh top soil, turning compost, adding manure, and taking off the layer of straw that protected small garden beds from the harsh winter winds. The soil is looking so fertile, and there are TONS of worms when I turn a small area of the garden beds! Garlic that was planted in October is coming up, slow to rise from being under a couple inches of straw mulch. Now that they are in the sun, I have no doubt they'll be quick to rise!!
Spring Projects and Tools
Now that it's time to get back into the garden, here are 5 ideas on projects and tools needed for this early spring: 1) A broadfork works great to loosen the grass roots around the garden plot fence line. Meadow Creature broadforks are fantastic quality and are easy enough to handle for small-scale garden projects. It may be needless to say, but in the community garden, we are often battling grass roots from the walkways that tend to creep into the beds... How to conquer it for more than one season, well, that's a whole other blog post! *Hint- we rely heavily on cardboard and wood mulch as shown in picture below! Grace enjoys using her 2) Hori Hori garden knife that's a fairly small size, and it works well for pulling the few "weeds" that found their way through the straw mulch. I say "weeds," in quotation, because we know that most opportunistic plants have medicinal properties and can be used for a variety of remedies, however, while we may enjoy Dandelion, our 200 neighbors may not. It's good to control the pollen and seeds from these "weeds" for now! Also, did you know that the term ‘weed’ is defined as an unwanted plant in the yard, and they sure have gotten a bad wrap in the past 100 years.
To plant in the spring, we do not mechanically till, but we do turn 3) fresh compost, top soil, and worm castings into the soil with the broadfork where we are about to plant annual vegetables. We love perennial plants, including vegetables, fruit, herbs, and flowers, but there are just some crops that we LOVE that have to be planted every year. According to multiple sources, such as Bill Mollison's Introduction to Permaculture, tilling over the long-term degrades the soil and makes the gardener work harder over time to replenish key nutrients required for successful harvests. Plus, we all prefer less pests, more beneficial bugs, and overall better soil health. Every fall, we layer about 3 inches of leaves in the soil, as well as, compost from the family food waste, garden materials, newspaper, and cardboard (no ink, staples, or tape!). Come spring, these have all broken down in the soil, making it gardener's gold! This gardener's gold is also known as sheet mulching. More on that later. To serve multi-purposes, we created 4) swale-like pathways, where rain runoff can seep into the straw mulch. This reduces weeds in the pathways, and when the garden beds are full of lush vegetation in July-August, the pathways have been some of the only places where weeds find opportunity to take root.
I thoroughly enjoy the small-scale garden, because it allows me to work more with my bare hands. For example, I LOVE to 5) sew seeds by hand, and I will carve their paths with the side of my hand. Acting like a hoe or trowel, my hand cuts into the plush soil to the depth needed, depending on the seed variety. This also requires the Forgotten Art of Squatting! True thing!! And it's an incredible practice for women, and men, to practice while gardening. It's a sacred connection to the earth, and it is an honor to garden. Our body movement matters, so I (we) like to stay conscious of this while gardening.
Spring Plantings and Tips on How to Plant Them
If I didn't just lose you on the Forgotten Art of Squatting, next I'll fill you in on a few types of cool-weather crops that can be planted in March. Depending on your zone, the following can be planted from seed directly into the soil as soon as it can be worked:
dark-leafy greens like kale, chard, spinach, mustard greens
peas
carrots
beets
radish
chervil
broccoli, kohlrabi, cauliflower, brussel sprouts
cover crops (we use a red crimson clover and a legume/oat mix).
We have tried two methods to growing snap peas, one just direct seed and another method where I was taught to soak the beans overnight in an unbleached paper towel that has been lightly soaked in filtered water. It speeds the germination rate, according to my mom. After testing both methods, I would have to admit that the soaked peas (and pole beans) sprouted sooner. However, the directly-seeded plants still sprouted and produced wonderfully! In this case, do what makes the most sense to you and if you’ve got the time and memory to soak prior to planting!
On March 8th, we planted the soaked Sugar Daddy Snap Peas, along with establishing a brand new patch of raspberries. Our community-garden plot neighbors gave us two varieties of raspberries, and now I'm attempting to have our very own!!! We simply cannot wait for fresh berries, berries in cream, raspberry syrup, raspberry crumble, and homemade jam! I feel a bit like Forest Gump and Bubba-Gump Shrimp with all the options!! :)
On March 12th, we planted celery, carrots, and beets. Carrots love consistent moisture, so we cover these with one of our row covers and check the moisture frequently to make sure they don't dry out! The late winter/early spring rains are scattered and can never be counted on to actually produce enough to cover the ground.
I'm beyond thrilled for all the new things happening this year. New ventures, new opportunities to learn, new plant varieties in the garden! I hope this is the first of many great posts about our garden experiences.
Happy gardening, friends!
G
